You can see that each successive exposure runs further into the scene IN SEQUENCE. In fact, this was my method for focus on a layout:ģcm, 5-6 cm, 10 cm, 15 cm, 20 cm, 30 cm, 60 cm, and beyond to infinity. So, as was the case with the close-up steamer, the first three images were in macro. Think of it this way: you have to focus really close for the foreground, and most lenses can't do that, especially if they have any zoom built in to them. You'd think that would corrupt the final product, but it never did in my experience. Then, switched out and let the lens focus normally. Did you mean macro? Yes, when I did the images, I started with one or two in macro mode. CombineZP will do a good job for you if you don't make each image differ by more than a couple of degrees each time. For one, it produced a more realistic photo.like I was on the ground holding the camera., and it made the camera line up the same way each time I tripped the shutter. That is why I fashioned a cradle down on the layout. That must be reproduced fairly closely in each successive exposure. I set my camera on manual (thanks to Jarrell Conley's instruction over the years) and adjusted the shutter speed, not the aperture, to get the best exposure.įor focusing manually, sure, if you can, but the important thing is to retain a mental image of what the view finder saw on the FIRST exposure. After a few seconds, the camera took the photo automatically. I would take up my Canon point-and-shoot, focus on a different place, trip the shutter, and the reset the camera on the cradle built next to the scene. I didn't use a shutter release because I used the time-delay feature instead. I would move lamps next to the scene, or slide my halogen GU-10 lights along their bar to minimize fuzzy shadows. I never used flash in all my model photos over the years. I flash indoors and when my setting is during daylight.unless I want to enhance faces under an alcove or in shadow. Harold, I'm sorry, I have overlooked this thread for a couple of days. (This is particularly true when using devices like extension tubes to increase magnification.)įinally you can use a hyperfocal distance calculator to see how much of your image will be in focus at various focal length's and apertures at a given distance. As some very short focal distances, even stopping down to the smallest apertures fails to bring the entire scene into focus. You can decrease the aperture of the lens, but that in itself leads to other problems. That is, the part of the photo that's in focus becomes narrower. At short focal distances, the depth of field in a photo is smaller (at average apertures). It's used extensively in macro photography, and to a lesser extent in landscape photography. This maximizes the overall sharpness of the image. The image capture software would not be able to discern the appropriate reference points in the photo to align the composite image(s).įocus stacking combines multiple photos with different focus points within the scene. You really wouldn't want to change that in a scene. Focal length is the magnification that the lens produces. You are incorrect when you say "taken at different focal lengths". You are correct when you say Focus stacking is combining multiple shots of the same scene. Focus stacking is photo stacking but photo stacking is not necessarily focus stacking.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |